Log Entry No6 - 14th Mar 08. (Discoverer)

LOCKED IN AND LOOKING BACK

In any other circumstance for such a single minded sailing vessel as ours, the weather would be ideal however for the last two days the weather gods have been against us, strong N – NE winds mean that we dare not risk weighing anchor with the proximity of a lee shore and so in Elsehul Bay we sit.

It is fitting actually that this is the case, in an ironic kind of way, as for the last 10 days or so we have marvelled at the inhospitable nature of this beautiful land, often witnessing the ghostly reminders of those magnificent vessels that have gone before us only to find eternal rest on these distant shores. It is no worry however to the crew of the good ship Discoverer, for as we cast our minds back to a mere three weeks ago when none among us could have foreseen the magnitude of the life enhancing experience we were about to embark on, a few days more nestled in the embrace of a cosy harbour seems a fair price to pay.

It didn’t begin too well it has to be said, and were it not for our Skipper and Mate the first few days on the broad blue could have proved too much for many of us. Sea sickness does not discriminate and with the prospect of over 700 miles to go some of the crew faced a stiff first challenge, we soon adapted however and after a few days and under the nurse like care of our more experienced crew members even the most incapacitated began to perk up and soon we were all marvelling in the experience. As we sailed ghostly Albatross and playful Dolphin kept our company, tiny sea birds (Wilsons Storm Petrels) danced audaciously on the surface of the swell, seeming always on the brink of being swamped only to reappear from the behind the crest of a crushing breaking wave. The watch system meant that time seemed to lose its relativity and it became tricky to remember what day it was. The meals on board were also an education to some – especially as they had to prepare it,as it soon became clear that some had never boiled an egg let alone cooked a two course meal for 15!!.

An eerie landfall some days later heralded the second phase of our quest. Following a brief shock as we were caught in an icy squall entering Cumberland Bay, we arrived and tied up alongside the Jetty at Grytviken, being assisted by some experienced world cruisers with 18 years at sea (they watched as we made an untidy approach with some barely hidden amusement!). We were all grateful for a secure and restful location to have a bit of a recharge.

Exploring the sanitised Grytviken Whaling Harbour was a sobering experience for the crew. To see the location and conditions that the men of these isolated outposts of humanity lived in, took some comprehension, but little compared to taking in the magnitude of the slaughter that took place here as over 170 000 great whales met their end in the 100 years or so that commercial whaling took place on South Georgia. The Museum at Grytviken was superbly maintained for such an isolated outpost and, is a credit to the dedicated small team who live down here to run things for most of the year, it must also be said that to name all those who helped us settle in would be impossible but suffice to say for people who have so little at their disposal they made every effort to give us every assistance. The highlight of the time alongside was a day trip overland to visit Maiviken Hbr. To see a turquoise bay broken by emerald green islands all set against snow covered angular peaks across they bay appear over the horizon of a tussock smothered rise has to be one of the most awe inspiring experiences of this authors career well travelled career – I half expected to see a Unicorn or some other fantastic beast come trotting around the nearest rise, such was the Hollywood set like vista that gradually washed over us. Many of the islands local inhabitants were to be seen along the grey slate sandy shores, King, Macaroni and Gentoo penguins strutted aloof along the shore as leviathan like Elephant seals soaked up the last of the summer sun, safe in the knowledge that they were the masters of all they surveyed. To complete the picture hoards of cheeky fur seal pups frolicked and danced in the breakers or lazed comatose like among some convenient Tussock clump. On the way back some of the boys skinny dipped in a crystal lake and one and all would happily attest that this day would indeed be a red letter day in their diaries.

Following our departure from Grytviken there followed a whirlwind tour of some of the more accessible (prevailing weather dictated) bays and harbours along the east coast of the island. Too numerous to mention in any detail they all had their own unique character, each one vying to be the most spectacular. All the crew will have their favourite memories but for me a visit to Shackleton’s final resting place and a memorable day alongside the ghost shipwreck of the” Bayard “ in Ocean Hbr more recently followed by witnessing the life and death struggle I witnessed just 20 meters from the boat as a huge Leopard Seal lived up to his reputation and hunting by ambush amongst the Kelp, playful Fur Seals splashing around oblivious to the final death struggle of several of their kind, compete strongly with my trip to Maiviken but don’t quite take the title as most memorable.

The project is titled “Leadership Through the Atlantic” and a more fitting title is hard to imagine as the more experienced crew members have all seen a pronounced change in the outlook and attitude of the Recruit based Crew. To spend three weeks so cramped up next to 14 other unfamiliar human beings in a space smaller than the average office must and indeed has had a profound effect on individuals with the natural leadership qualities of some soon becoming apparent. Even the more reticent personalities however have shown their metal and learned something about themselves and teamwork under at times very uncomfortable circumstances. For myself, not only has one of my lifetime ambitions been achieved by this trip/visit but also my belief in the quality of the raw material coming into the Army as recruits has been reaffirmed. These guys have performed well above expectation, each coming to terms with personal fears and shortcomings, so much so that when they return and recall this once in a lifetime experience to their colleagues, family and friends I am convinced that even if ever so slightly those people will notice the positive influence that this enchanting land will have had.

W02 (SSM) Shaun Mayland, Royal Engineers.