Log Entry No 3 - 10th July 08. (Discoverer)

FROM THE CAPTAINS CABIN

Mast Check.

So much has happened since our last post that it is hard to know where to start or what to single out. But let’s start by wishing our skipper, Bob, a belated but happy birthday. Our passage to St John’s was largely conducted in fog and whilst this denied us views of what is by all accounts - and our brief glimpses - a stunningly beautiful coastline, it did allow us to experience the full Grand Banks experience for which these waters are renowned. The meeting of cold currents from the Labrador and the warmer waters of Nova Scotia causes the infamous local fog over the Grand Banks, which is rich fishing grounds. The result is a legacy of epic seamanship and fishing in some of the most dangerous seas in The Atlantic if not the world. This is reflected in the culture and history of “Newfie”, whose inhabitants’ lives have been shaped by the sea.

Whale Surfacing.

However, on the last day of our passage the fog did clear and we were treated to spectacular views of not only the coast but also of schools of whales and dolphins. The banks attract migrating whales as they head north into the Arctic. In yesteryear, whaling was an important industry but before vilifying the whalers its is proper to recall that not only were they the hardiest of seaman in one of the most dangerous industries ever but they were also satisfying European and American demand for whale products. Today, whale watching is a principal tourist activity. For several hours we were treated to displays of dolphins playing on the bow and whales blowing and broaching. Sadly our photographs do not capture the magic of the afternoon but it is a sight that none of us will ever forget and a reminder of the extraordinary opportunity and privilege that, thanks to both the Army and our sponsors, we are enjoying.

Our arrival in St John’s in the early evening of Saturday allowed a run ashore to the dockside pubs of George Street. Here traditional Newfoundland bands, heavily influenced by their Irish heritage, nestle alongside more eclectic and modern bands. Old and young revel in the atmosphere and we, like generations before us, experienced the renowned welcome extended by these most friendly of people to visiting seafarers.

Whilst we have been making our way up the coast of the north Americas, WO2 John Crompton and his right hand man, Cpl Jim Smith, have been safeguarding our rear link in the UK. One of their most challenging achievements has been moving our Arctic equipment from the UK to Canada. Without their hard work, supported by the small RAF movement’s team based in Newfoundland, we could not have achieved this. As not only expedition leader for Leadership through the Atlantic but also as a member of the Leg 10 crew I owe a debt of gratitude on behalf of the crew for the goodwill and support of so many people.

Next morning we set to with gusto clearing Discoverer of her tropical sailing apparel so that we could reequip her with the Arctic stores. Mid morning F/Sgt Carl Richie with his wife (an RAF reservist supplementing his team) and family arrived with a large trailer of stores. WO2 Mus Watson and Sgt Ade Waters, our on board seniors and ARTD instructor and Watch Leader respectively took the lead in issuing additional warm weather and survival kit. Others were restowing the forepeak with additional equipment for Greenland including that which will allow us to explore the shoreline by inflatable and spend time camping ashore. Napoleon once observed that an army marches on its stomach and Phil Howard Smith, our RAF Wing Commander and 2nd mate set about victualling the yacht and preparing menus (pse can we hyperlink to menu plan) for the next phase. Concurrently, under Bob’s direction we were conducting routine boat maintenance from exercising seacocks in the bilge to light checks at the mast truck.

The following morning we did the “big shop” - food, fuel and also some individual equipment such as boots. This allowed us the afternoon for sightseeing and R&R. St John’s is primarily a commercial port but we are not quite the only yacht. When we arrived there was a Dutch one alongside on the pontoon next to us and after they left we were joined by a Norwegian yacht, whose arrival did not go quite as planned – or at least we assume that two men in the water was not part of the skipper’s plan. In true maritime spirit and tradition we were quick to help and commiserate on the bad luck that caused their misfortune.

On Tuesday morning, whilst clearing customs, we fortuitously met a Canadian Army Officer who had been unaware of our exact arrival times but had up his sleeve every possible assistance and welcome. The outcome was a rapid readjustment of our departure time as we enjoyed yet more generous Canadian hospitality. We were treated to a tour of some of the military and historical sites and, in particular, a visit to the headquarters and Regimental Museum of The Royal Newfoundland Regiment. The Regiment was raised in its current guise for the First World War, but traces its origins to a much earlier local militia era. Newfoundland was not then part of Canada and uniquely they were the only non British Regiment to fight in a British formation during the First World War The Regiment saw service at Gallipoli and on 1 July 1916 suffered more than 90% casualties on the First Day of the Somme offensive. Reformed it later played a vital role when, again severely depleted, 9 men stood as the only force in the British trenches facing overwhelming German attack. Despite overwhelming odds the line held.

In Newfoundland, commemorating the Somme and their losses takes pre-eminence over Canada Day celebrations. We were honoured when the Adjutant Captain Jonathan Powell presented us with Forget-me-not flowers, their traditional symbol of remembrance for their fallen. It seems appropriate to reflect that in the last century young Canadians and Newfoundlanders served side by side with British Serviceman in two world wars. We stood shoulder to shoulder in Korea and other UN operations including the Balkans. Today in Afghanistan that legacy holds true. There could be no finer or more poignant tribute to our Canadian hosts and experience.

For now though our bow once more points seawards as we continue our journey ever northward.

Richard Pattison & Fiona Galbraith
(Blue Watch leader)

FROM THE CREWS QUARTERS: White Watch

Forget Me Not.

The entrance to St Johns was very special not just because it was the first time that we had seen anything for days but we where greeted by a 2 hour display of wildlife, dolphins swam and played on the bow and whales surfaced around us. The port entrance was very dramatic as well, large steep cliffs then a narrow cutting with lots of hidden battlements. The history behind was interesting due to the number of times it had changed hands between the French and the English. Being the start point for a lot of the cross Atlantic fleet during the Second World War has left its mark on the port.

The boat arrived at about 7pm local time and the crew wasted no time in making an impression on the locals on the famous George street. Our time here was rounded off with a guided tour by the Canadian forces around the local area, we where taken up to signal hill, the pace where the first cross Atlantic signal was received from the UK. We also got to see how important the hill was to any attempt to capture the port and how the American and British had been aided over the years by the people of Newfoundland. It wasn’t till 1949 that the province became Canadian from the UK, and that was seen in the second part of the visit, when we were taken up to the regimental collection which documented the ties with the British forces. It was good to view the collection which fitted in well with the battlefield tour that we go on in phase 1 training, as we had visited Newfoundland Park on the Somme, one of the battles that the regiment fought.

To conclude the log we all had a great time and found the people very friendly next stop Greenland!!

Ade, Rob, Dan and Dean.

First Of The Birthday Boys.

Our time in Newfoundland was probably the best stop so far and it’s not just down to George street (a locally famous street filled both sides with bars and night clubs) but because we were welcomed by everyone so warmly. Random people on the street would come and ask us about the boat and our trip and when they heard our English accents we were probably the most popular guys in the country. Dan even made it into a local newspaper suspended on a pulley system half way up the mast. Rob Leigh Dan and myself hit the town again and once again had some great nights but it wasn’t all fun and games we had the monthly checks and maintenance on the boat to do first but that was actually good fun doing a bit of hard work. Just to make things all the better on the morning we’re due to leave the Newfoundland Forces turned up and took us out sight seeing for the day then treated us to dinner, we were delayed for a bit but I don’t think anyone minded and a big thank you to the skipper who was left behind to watch the boat.

Anyway next stop Greenland.

Bonzo (Daniel Bonham)